Christopher Bailey has outdone himself again - not just with this collection, but in its presentation as well. This is the first fashion show shown simultaneously in 3D worldwide, to a select set of viewers in London, Paris, Tokyo, Dubai, Los Angeles, and New York. He has also made this collection available online for the masses for 3 days only (do not hesitate to go the Burberry website and buy with your cards!)
Bailey inspired himself on an aviator jacket that he saw in the Burberry archives, and from there, he reconfigured for the modern woman. Oversized collars with leather straps and buckle details adorned these shearling aviator jackets that seemed feminine and masculine at the same time. His thigh high leather boots were a showstopper in themselves, commanding the viewer's attention in the black leather or snakeskin variation. We cannot also forget his shearling boots with straps, which would be best described as fashionable, yet utilitarian for the cold weather. Who says being fashionable is supposed to be anti-utilitarian? Certainly Bailey disagrees.
vogue paris march 2010 cover featuring rose cordero. (image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com)
(images courtesy of fashioncopious.typepad.com)
The cover of Vogue Paris for this March will feature a model of color for the first time since May 2002 when model Liya Kebede graced its cover. The new covergirl is an 18 year old model from the Dominican Republic named Rose Cordero, and her spread was shot by renown photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. This is a very groundbreaking move by editrix Carine Roitfeld, who caused controversy in last year's October issue when she featured model Lara Stone in blackface. We are happy to see this positive change towards featuring models of color, and hope that this trend continues!
Yesterday a statement was released by the President of PPR, who owns the Gucci Group and its 51% stake in the Alexander McQueen brand. After intense decision-making they decided to continue the brand, and McQueen's Fall/Winter 2010 collection will show in March as planned. No further comments were made at the time on who would take on the helm of creative director for McQueen. Some people say Gareth Pugh is a strong candidate, and others say that Hussein Chalayan would be a better choice. Rumors though, have been circulating about how Gareth Pugh may be the future designer for Dior Homme. Any opinions?
Dark colors were dominant in this collection, and as a result the make-up that was used created the effect of goth chic - pale foundation, dark lips, and defined eye brows were the norm. A form-fitting toggle coat cropped from below the breasts was featured and paired with high-waisted graffiti-inscribed skinny jeans, created in collaboration with J Brand Denim.
Designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez also featured a black skirt that had fur trimming on the bottom and this was paired with a navy jacquard and a black undercoat. The designers also played around with the plaid designs by blurring them with the aid of a photocopy machine (they moved the plaids while they were getting copied.)
The models carried the P.S. 11 bag, which is an upgraded take on the P.S. 1 bag out now. As for the show itself , the front row was a who's who of Hollywood, with Nicole Richie, Mary-Kate Olsen, and Selma Blair present. Talk about effective advertising!
A typical Jeremy Scott fashion show is more like a freak circus for fashionistas, and this show was no exception. There were models that came out with black dresses that had a belt with a cardboard cutout of a female, and whenever color was featured, it was dominated by black. Scott also have new meaning to the term "fashion statement" when came out with a bat wing sweater that had the words "FASHION" and "STYLE" written all across it
A few of his leather jackets featured asymmetrical buttons with fur sleeves or jewels, and a few had gilded Jeremy Scott plates on them. A pair of boots featured also had the same gilded plates all over them, which is meant to mock the idea of excessive branding on clothing.
He gave new meaning to the term 'cross-dressing" when he featured dresses with crosses all over them. Scott, always irreverent decided to bring back the cone-bra that Madonna and Jean Paul Gaultier made popular and had the bra attached to a mini-skirt by suspenders. Last but not least, we cannot forget the dress that had a train of fabric attached to a gilded hanger with Jeremy Scott's name on it. Scott is always witty and will always know how to make a loud fashion statement.
Normally G-Star is known for the use of dark colors, but this year designer Pierre Morrisset went for BOLD colors. Brilliant hues of blue, yellow and green pieces were mixed and matched with pieces in brown and black leather and light blue denim. This collection featured oversized A-shaped raincoats and wool trench coats with oversized collars, as well as shawl-collared cardigans that draped nicely in the back. It was nice to see G-Star Raw also showcase metallic drop-crotch pants in gold and blue, adding to the futuristic feel of the show. It was also refreshing to see a fashion show with a different layout of their runway so that more people could see the outfits. The finale was very well-coordinated and theatrical.
Every element of this show broke the Marc Jacobs tradition. Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy came out personally to open the show by tearing off the brown construction paper that covered the models and revealed all of them standing behind a wooden frame. Marc also ditched his skort in favor of a tailored suit (gasp!) The show was like coming of age celebration for Marc Jacobs, who departed from his wild and subversive aesthetics in favor of nostalgia. In fact Marc borrowed elements from the different design techniques he has used in the past two decades and experimented with them. The results came out AH-MAZING!!!!
The color palette featured mostly neutrals and pale pastels, ranging from soft gray to beige. The color white was also very present in a few pieces, which would break the rule of not wearing white after Labor Day. Fur was very present in this collection and it worked well with the romantic feel of the outfits. A few notable pieces displayed were:
+ the pale gray trench coat with fur trimming on the collar, sleeves, and bottom part.
+ the cardigan with black and gold sequin embellishments.
+ the leather gloves that reached above the elbows.
+ the see-through trench coat with fur trimming on the collar.
+ the mauve dress with floral patterns worn by model Jamie Bochert at the end.
It should be noted that the song played for the show was "Somewhere Over The Rainbow," a song appropriate for a designer who was nostalgic for the past. Many people in the audience were pleased with the show.
This collection has many of the aesthetics that are associated with pieces from Rick Owens. Every piece was black and featured garments made of cotton, wool crepe, and leather that draped gracefully. I was fascinated by Hourani's techique of contrasting fabrics such as spandex and patent leather on one pair of leggings shown. It is noteworthy to say that all of the male models were wearing high-heeled boots that make the YSL Jonny Boots seem like flats. Overall this was a strong collection for Hourani!!